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Paint and Final Assembly

 

 

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  I picked up some PPG Shop Line Single Stage Paint today so I can gloss black the hubs and any other parts that need to be black, as well as a sample of the Jeeps final color.  I also have some new Primer, Epoxy and Fill.  2013-05-03/08

  For test painting I selected the largest Ammo Can I could get quickly.  I stripped the exterior paint, and primed and painted it the Jeep's intended Blue.  The Ammo Can is darker in color in person, but also more vibrant.  2013-05-08
  The body Filler, Guide Coat and Glaze have arrived.  2013-05-14








  Spent 5 hours masking off the top side of the Hood, setting up parts in the paint booth, spraying the sealer, and fixing a few runs in the sealer, and then spraying 6 coats of the single stage PPR Shop Line Paint.  Ended up with one, some what nasty run in one fender that will lave to to be sanded and buffed out.  2013-06-29




  Well,  It wasn't good when I got to the parts after drying all night.  Apparently the paint experienced a Solvent Pop, either due to excessive film thickness or insufficient drying time between coats and too heavy application of the undercoats.  So I started sanding everything down for repainting.  First the Dash, then the Grill Shell, then the Fenders.  When I repainted the Dash, I also painted the top side of the hood.  2013-07-01
  Well, Again, the Hood top side experienced a very bad case of Solvent Pop.  The Dash came out pretty clean, so I painted the Grill Shell and Fenders, and took the hood back to sand it for re-painting.  The Fenders and Grill look good, as does the Hood after re-painting, but the truth will be tomorrow  when it's cured.  2013-07-02











  Well, the 2nd paint job on the Hood didn't turn out as well as it did on the other parts.  The Solvent Pops were back, not as bad, but back.  So in an attempt to see if it was salvageable, I wet sanded it.  One spot was so bad that you could still clearly see the pin point holes in the paint.  Butch buffed it as I didn't have the tools/materials and hadn't ever buffed before.  It dosn't look too bad, but I'm not sure it will be acceptable.  I'll let it finish curing and see if it gets better, or worse as it cures.  2013-07-03

  After spraying the U-POL Gravitex Plus HS Stone Chip Protector to the underside I sprayed the rear wheel wells and front of the firewall.  2013-07-23








  Taped off the underside of the Tub, attached my trusty cab dollies (4th vehicle used on), and flipped the tub back rite side up.  Then did a little more filling and sanding, before finishing prepping the tub for the fill primer.  Next I fill primed the Tub exterior and a few misc. parts, the applied a guide coat to the tub in preparation for sanding.  2013-07-24

  Spent 10 hours sanding the tub exterior today.  Tomorrow, seam seal the exterior, paint the interior firewall, and then Raptor the tub interior.  2013-07-25

 

Well, the weather didn't cooperate today.  I did get the exterior of the tub seams sealed, the tub masked ready for painting the interior firewall.  I also final sanded the tailgate in preparation for painting and bed lining it.  2013-07-26










  A good full day of work today.  Sprayed the tailgate, Roll bat and tub in preparation for spraying the Raptor Tintable Bed Liner.  I then re-masked everything off and sprayed the bed liner.  2013-07-26



  The new SS (Polished Wiper Motor Cover arrived yesterday.  Started gathering yup the miscellaneous parts that still need to be painted.  I then worked on a few of the parts, sanding and filling.  the steering wheel is getting very close.  Now to spray some fill primer and some more sanding.  Looks like I'll make it into the paint booth tomorrow with the tub.  2013-07-28


  Loaded up the Tub and headed to the paint booth.  Spent time masking off the tub interior for painitng, and then masking off the exposed bed rail bed liner for the seal coat.  Once the seal coat is sprayed I'll remove the second masking and paint the tub exterior and bed lined covered bed rail all at once.  No open time in the booth this afternoon though, but should get in tomorrow morning.  Spent the afternoon still working on small parts, sanding, priming, filling and sanding.  2013-07-29







  Spent the morning sealing and painting the tub. Looks good, with a few runs that will have to be addressed.  Hopefully it don't experience the solvent pop issue I had on the earlier parts.  Spent the afternoon sanding some of the miscellaneous parts, and sanding the tailgate to it can be re-applied.  2013-07-30






  Did some wet sanding and buffing on the runs I had on the Tub.  Came out better, and still might work on them a little more later.  Brought it back from the paint booth shop to my shop.  worked on the replacement windshield frame.  The foam padding that was glued to the corners of the frame were a real pain to remove and then clean off the frame.  Next I'll fill prime the frame and sand it to prep it for paint.  At this point I have 209 hours of into the job.  2013-07-31






  After picking up some exhaust clamps and hanger isolators I designed and fabricated the exhaust hangers.  I also cut loose, re-aligned and welded up the one previously broken windshield hinge.  It should now install neater and align better.  2013-08-05



  Picked up the two remaining Muffler Hanger Isolators and Carburetor re-build kit, then finished fabricating the the other muffler hangers.  Cleaned, and painted and hung the brackets and mufflers.  Unfortunately my plan to have the exhaust pipes done before the tub is installed isn't going to happen.  The one exhaust shop pipe bender tech is on vacation, and the other shop isn't able to handle a non-running vehicle, so I'll finish the pipes later.  I sprayed the fill primer and sanded the Windshield frame and spare tire bracket.  2013-08-06














  After taking Gabrielle to her High School Meeting, I set the tub on the frame with the engine hoist and no other helpers.  The Body bolt kit I got, was for the newer body, and some of the bolts were short, so I'll have to pick up a few longer bolts to attach it.  I also cut the hole in the 4x4 shifter plate and installed it.  Next I gathered up many of the parts that needed to be painted black, and painted them.  2013-08-07


  Worked on the final cleanup and broken bolt removal on the upper windshield hinges, as well as started installing the brake booster and brake/clutch pedale assembly.  Had to modify the booster mounting bracket to align with the cab/peddle holes, as well as fabricate a firewall rod boot.  The clutch rods took a lot of adjustment to get properly functioning.  Before with bad/missing parts the adjust was extended almost to it's max to be operational, no more.  I also installed the parking brake assembly, and the shift tower before blasting and priming a bunch of fasteners for blue paint.  2013-08-08



  Worked on the Spaghetti today (wiring harness) as well as prepping more parts and fasteners to paint black.  2013-08-09





  Sprayed the additional black parts, then worked on the reverse switch and lights as well as inserted the fuel filler.  I also discovered that the shifter knob is on so tight it won't come off to let me install the shifter boot.  Also started routing the engine side wiring harness, and then remembered I need to install wires for the electronic fuel pump.  2013-08-10

  Mounted the Spare Tire Carrier and Brake Master Cylinder, as well as attaching the Pitman Arm, Drag Link, and Tie Rod.  2013-08-11











  Spent the morning painting more Blue.  then in the afternoon, I started a little more wiring work, as well as installing and connecting the heater box and parking brake cable.  2013-08-12






  A quick spraying of some black parts and touching up a few spots here and their, then off to pick up the parts I painted yesterday then a few more misc parts to buy.  Once back I continued the assembly process.  Cleaned up the front turn signal lenses rings, you can see the one on the left I cleaned as compared to the one on the right.  Also installed the accelerator pedal, and grill shell.  With the help of Gabrielle (daughter #4) I was able to install the Roll Bar and secure the bolts that hold the tub on.  The battery tray was a real paint to install, nothing wanted to line up.  I also finished off the brake lines, still need to prime the master cylinder and bleed them, but the lines are all in place.  2013-08-13







  Installed the tail Lights and Tailgate.  Still need to wrap the chains before making them perminate.  Connected the fuel pump as well.  Tore apart and started cleaning the carburetor for it's re-build.  Swapped in the wiper components into the new windshield frame, and then installed the hinges and test fir the frame.  More wiring work, as I started on the dash.  With the turn signal switch, the Hazard switch and lamp will be left empty.  2013-08-14








  Reassembled the carburetor and the re-installed it.  Installed the headlights and started cleaning up the rings.  You can see one clean and one not in the photo.  Installed the fresh air box, the hose was a booger to attach.  Installed the floor shifter covers and boots.  Started the dash wiring, not too bad so for, I've connected the light switch, wiper switch, and ignition switch, now to connect the gauges and lights.  2013-08-15





  A neighbor came over last night while I was closing up the shop, and asked why the roll bar was crooked.  Well, I'd not stepped back and looked at the forest while looking at the trees.  Started the day measuring and discovered what looks to be a 3/4" twist in the frame.  The front left frame rain is up by 1/4", and the real left is down by 1/2" as compared to the other rail.  Unbolted most of the tub, one side of the frame, and started moving things around with little luck.  Did manage to adjust the thicknesses of the body mounts and get the tub much straighter, but the frame is still twisted, and the roll bar still looks only a little better when compared to the windshield frame.  I did also finish wiring the rear lights on the tub, and a little more wiring on the dash.  2013-08-16











  Good days work of dash wiring, fender install and engine wiring.  The dash wiring cleaned up nicely, still need to wire the turn signal switch and horn, but won't do that until I install the steering column.  Went to install the fenders, and found the fenders didn't bolt right up though.  Apparently the shock mounts and and mount clearances on the reproduction fenders didn't line up.  Had to cut on the painted fenders to get them to fit.  Now I'll have to paint the fresh cuts for protection.  Only engine side items left to wire is the starter, alternator, and furl pump.  2013-08-17



  Got the defroster ducts connected.  Had to use a newer top duct as the old style wasn't available, and it has only one hose connection as compared to two.  I caped the one and used a piece of 2.25" hose to duct the air from the Heater box to the defroster duct.  With this piece in place, I then installed the heater controls.  Next came the dash.  After connecting and loosely bolting it in place I re-checked the connections to discover there was a short some where in the run circuit.  As I use a 10 amp power supply to test with, I wasn't blowing any fuses, just shorting out the power.  So I spent a lot of time chasing the problem, to only discover that it was some where in the gauges wiring in the dash, so the dash came back out.  I installed the Bad Boy horn, and then the  the radiator and fan shroud.  2013-08-18









  Started out the day finishing the chase for the short in the gauges.  Could not find any gauge problems, so I re-connected all the wires, and the short is gone.  So I either had a miss wire, or a wire end ring shorting out against the back of a gauge.  I then re-installed the dash, and re-checked again.  All worked as it should.  I also attached the heater controls the the bottom of the dash, but had to fix the brace, the broke off after it was installed.  I was now able to install the drivers seat with the dash all in place.  I installed the steering column, and then came the steering wheel.  Unfortunately, the new steering shaft was 2" too long to allow for it's installation.  So I had to remove it and shorten it to work on the CJ6 and the old steering column location.  With that done the steering wheel was installed and connected.  I then worked on connecting and testing the turn signal unit, and then installing it and the horn wore.  Turn signal worked well, but the horn button is too touch and sticks.  I also connected the starter relay wiring, and the windshield hold down clamps from Advance Adapters.  Something is amiss with the replacement windshield and the dash, as there is a huge gap between the AA clamps, and the knob they provide isn't long enough so I had to use bolts.



  Spent the afternoon mostly tying up little items.  Connected the fuel pump wires, and secured the fuel line.  Installed the transfercase shifter knobs.  Connected the Starter and alternator wiring, so all the wiring should now be done.  Installed the blank light and last bezels on the dash.  Filled the differentials and radiator with fluids.  Tightened the remaining body mounts.  I also attempted to fix the transfercase to transmission leak.  Fluid was seeping through the bolt threads, hopefully it works.  2013-08-20




  Rolled the Jeep out and cleaned up the shop a little while I waited on the rear brake residual pressure valve to arrive.  Once I had it, I installed it and bleed the brakes. A bit of a pain and a little mess, but the brakes are bleed.  Next came the truthful moment, to start the Jeep for the first time since I started this build.  The Jeep had ran before I got it, but was not running when I picked it up, a wiring issue was believed to be the issue.  It started right up once fuel was making it thru the carburetor.  After a few moments, it was running smoothly and oil pressure was good, and no fluids leaking.  Jumped in and drove it forward and then backwards 20 feet.  All was good, ran, shifted and stopped all just fine.  When I turned the key off, however the engine didn't stop running.  Quickly pulled the battery cable, and, well the alternator was working just fine, as the engine kept going.  With the HEI ignition system, their isn't a coil wire, and the HEI power wire was not accessible, so I quickly headed to the fuse block, and pulled the coil fuse.  Confident in my wiring I called Painless, and was told it's a common problem with the GM style alternators.  I needed to add a Diode to the alternator exciter wire to prevent the alternator from back feeding it self after the key is turned off.  So to further check things out I made a trip around the neighborhood in low range.  All was good still, except when I got back to the shop I discovered a rear main oil leek.  After not finding anything else I made another lap, this time in high range before calling it a drive.  I then decided to install the windshield glass, we I tried, but will have to take it to a pro who knows what they are doing.  2013-08-21

  After making a parts run, and dropping the windshield off at the glass shop, I decided to install the diode I picked up from Radio Shack (276-1661). Once installed a quick test, and now when you turn the key off, the engine shuts off.  Swapped in the correct vacuum hoses and started making the punch list before starting the dreaded job of sanding the hood for it's third paint job.  The solvent pits were very deep, I'm down to the fill primer in some places.  2013-08-22

Punch List
- Tire Chain covers
- Paint Top Exposed portion of Fuel Tank
- Replace Rear Main Seal
- Paint Hood and Glove Box Door
- Install Windshield Glass
- Install Wipers, Motor & Cover
- Install Mirrors
- Raptor Liner Touch-up
- Black Paint Touch-up
- Blue Paint Touch-up
- Install Exhaust
- Paint Exhaust
- Front Alignment






  After picking up the oil pan gasket and rear main seals as well as the windshield frame from the glass shop, I spent the afternoon installing the windshield frame, wipers, wiper motor and cover, as well as the mirrors.  I also blacked out the top portion of the fuel tank that was exposed between the frame and the body.  I also finished sanding and masking off the hood to prep it for paint as well as removed and sanded the glove box door for re-painting as well.  2013-08-23

Punch List
- Tire Chain covers
- Replace Rear Main Seal
- Paint Hood and Glove Box Door
- Raptor Liner Touch-up
- Black Paint Touch-up
- Blue Paint Touch-up
- Install Exhaust
- Paint Exhaust
- Front Alignment




  I aligned (toe-in and Steering wheel) the front end.  I did the Black Touch-up Paint as well as the Raptor.  I also made the black duck cloth tailgate chain covers and installed them.  2013-08-24

Punch List
- Replace Rear Main Seal
- Paint Hood and Glove Box Door
- Blue Paint Touch-up
- Install Exhaust
- Paint Exhaust



  Well, I attempted to paint the Hood for the 3rd time, as well as re-paint the glove box door.  The hood painting didn't start out looking good, as some of the previous solvent pop pin holes were still present.  I was able to get them to fill, but hope the paint doesn't repeat the ugliness once it's dry.  I also got the old replacement windshield frame blasted, after I cut the old canvas top channel off.  The frame is a little worse than I thought.  2013-08-26

Punch List
- Replace Rear Main Seal
- Blue Paint Touch-up
- Install Exhaust
- Paint Exhaust


 
Got to into the Exhaust Shop and got the pipes bent and installed.  Now to remove them and paint them.  Also picked up the hood and Glove Box after curing overnight.  Hood looks good, hopefully it will stay that way.  Need to install the hood hardware, and adjust one fender.  2013-08-27

Punch List
- Replace Rear Main Seal
- Blue Paint Touch-up
- Paint Exhaust
- Rear of Chassis Paint Touch-up
- Missed one Trans Mount Bolt, and Lower Battery Brace Nut
- Fabricate a Front Bumper so the Jeep can pass MO state Inspection
- Install Hood Latches and hood windshield hardware








  Pulled the Exhaust off and cleaned, sanded and painted it.  I also aligned the hood fender gap, as well as installed the re-painted glove box door.  I then pulled the oil pan to replace the leaking rear main seal.  the old seal was hard and needed to be replaced.  I installed a fresh oil pan gasket after cleaning out the oil pan.  I also touched up the rear of the chassis as well.  I discovered that the CJ6 hood latches I had were the wrong ones, so I'll be ordering new ones as well as the glove box bumpers.  I installed the trans mount bolt I'd missed as well.  2013-08-28

Punch List
- Blue Paint Touch-up
- Fabricate a Front Bumper so the Jeep can pass MO state Inspection
- Install Hood Latches and hood windshield hardware



  After a chase in vain for the 1978 Ford F-150 7.5L spark Plug Wires to replace the ones that got into the fan belt, I gave up and ordered them, then decided I'd start the Jeep to check the oil leak repair.  Well there was a noise now, in the front of the engine.  I opened the hood and took a look, and the fan was bouncing around.  shut the engine off, and sure enough the water pump had given up.  It had leaked some after shutting it off on the initial starts, but wasn't leaking, but was now leaking again as well as the noise and wobble.  Thank the Lord, I was able to get the previously stuck/stubborn water pump larger bolts out with out any breaking off.  One of the smaller bolts was already missing and one broke off from long before.  While I waited for a new water pump I wa sable to fabricate a simple front bumper.  Now to paint and install it.  2013-08-29

Punch List
- Blue Paint Touch-up
- Install New Water Pump
- Paint and Install Front Bumper so the Jeep can pass MO state Inspection
- Install Hood Latches and hood windshield hardware

  Installed the new water pump, but had the lower radiator hose clamp not properly aligned, and had to drain fix and refill.  I also primed and painted the front bumper.  Took the Jeep around the block to test the pump, and just as I entered the drive way on the way back it quit.  Got it going and made it back into the drive way, and thought it might be miss adjusted float.  Popped the top of the carb off, and bone dry.  Checked the fuel to the pump, and it was flowing, checked the pre-filter and fuel flowed thru it, but the electrical pump was very warm.  Seems the electrical fuel pump is going out, so I've got a replacement on order.  2013-08-30

Punch List
- Blue Paint Touch-up
- Install Front Bumper so the Jeep can pass MO state Inspection
- Install Hood Latches and hood windshield hardware
- Install New Fuel Pump










  Installed the front bumper, it made a nice visual improvement to the Jeep.  Also installed the hood Windshield hold down hardware, but the hood latches are still on order (back order?).  When I crawled under the Jeep to replace the fuel pump, I discovered a new oil puddle and leak!  The rear output yoke/seal is leaking on the Dana 20.  It has a new seal, but I used the best yoke I had, guess it wasn't good enough. The Fuel pump seems to have fixed the problem, and the Jeep runs great now.  2013-08-31

Punch List
- Blue Paint Touch-up
- Install Hood Latches
- Replace damaged Spark Plug Wire
- Replace Transfer Case Yoke and seal.


  Painted the picture frame windshield, and touched up the Blue Paint.  I also installed the Hood Latches as well as the replaced the damaged spark plug wire.  I've also cleaned up a couple of small runs in the paint.  The new rear output yoke arrived as well as a new seal, and they are installed, so the leak should be all fixed.  Only thing left is the Glove Box Rubber Bumpers, and I don't know when they are arriving.  2013-09-05

Punch List
- Install Glove Box Rubber Bumpers





  All loaded up and ready to deliver the Jeep CJ6 back to the unsuspecting owner.  2013-09-06