Initial Disassembly and Repairs


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  The Jeep's VIN is "J5F84HHxxxxxx".  The Engine Tag number is "8 06 H 03".  The Vin tag says the Jeep was built in July of 1975.  Decoding the VIN and the Engine Tag, the Jeep is a LHD 1975, built in Toledo with a 3speed and the 304 150 hp V-8.  The Engine Tag was built on the 3rd day of June 1975 and appears to be the Jeeps original V-8 engine.
Will-Power TV 1975 Jeep CJ6 Episode 1   First let me say, these videos are created by me with no assistance, and no script.  It is what it is and how it looks.  This video is to show where I started at with the project and to give you a little view of where it's going to go.  Enjoy.  2013-03-19

  I stripped the front clip off (what was left of it) and drained the Antifreeze.  I removed all the items in the Tub, Dash, HVAC, Seat, etc...  I then pulled the Tub from the chassis.  Man were there a lot of body bolts on a CJ6, but got them all out and lifted the tub with few issues.  Found no defroster ducts and a messy wiring of the heater fan.  Also the steering column is broke and the entire column probably needs to be rebuilt.  The floor of the under passenger seat storage area is a patched mess, and I'll have to cut it out and rebuild it.  Found the transmission cross member with one brace broke and the other missing it's bolts.  The rear floor of the tub and it's rear main cross member will need a lot of work.  So for about 7 hours into the work.  2013-03-20

  Stripped the rest of the wiring out of the tub, and removed the rear lights.  I also cut out part of the bad passenger under seat storage floor.  It was patched with a piece of soffit, and some kind of hard well stuck patch material.  2013-03-22

  Well, the cat is out of the bag.  Phil, the owner kept trying to go to the Storage Unit(s), and they were successful, but it got to be to difficult, and the beans was spilt.  He knows I now have the Jeep, and is aware that I'm "fix'ing" it.  He gave some requirements/inspirations, and wants to know the color.  So the pictures to the left is his inspiration (without the full top).  2013-03-31

  The Steam Cleaner re-scheduled the power washing, so I did a little more work on the chassis and also tripped the dash down.  2013-04-02
  Not much work, but a lot of part searches and ordering/picking up.  I did take the Heater apart and clean it out, a little.  2013-04-03

  After another parts run, I pulled the tub and Chassis out to wait on the Power/Hot Water Cleaner.  While waiting I did a little shop cleaning and yard work, so no other work on the Jeep other than the cleaning.  I did discover that there are some missing/broke bolts on the transmission, and one of it's mounting bolts to the bell housing is also missing/broke.  Another item I noticed was that the transmission has been replaced at some point, as evidence by the yellow salvage yard marking on it's right side.  2013-04-04

  Well, it was a day of surprises, some good and some not.  Pulled the valve covers and found no gaskets, just blue RTV sealer, but the inside of the covers and the top of the head shows the engine condition to be good.  Next I started looking for the transmission oil leak.  Well after pulling the Dana 20 transfercase, and then the T15 transmission, I found it.  The transmission housing had been broke/cracked and welded back on the right lower side.  However it looks like the weld isn't a good one and lets oil leak out.  I also discovered a crack in the bellhousing from the clutch arm opening down and a little ways across the bottom.  I pulled the top to check out the inside as it seems smooth to turn and shift and found the inside looking good.  The owner found a replacement T15 case so I'll swap the internals over to have a good leak free transmission.  The Dana 20 will need new seals, as the blue RTV seems to be used everywhere on the Jeep.  I also pulled the manual steering box while I had the time.  2013-04-05
Will-Power TV 1975 Jeep CJ6 Episode 2   Again let me say, these videos are created by me with no assistance, and no script.  It is what it is and how it looks.  This video is to show where how the project is progressing and to give you a little view of where it's going to go.  Enjoy.  2013-04-07 

  Well, it's amazing how much rust can hide under ugly paint.  I cleaned up the valve covers and reinstalled them with fresh proper gaskets.  I went to pull the belt off the engine to check to be sure I got the proper new one, and the adjusting bolt on the alternator snapped off.  Even after drilling the bolt and trying an extractor the corrosion between the steel bolt and aluminum was too much.  So since we don't know the condition of the alternator or the external regulator, I'm going to replace it with a new single wire (internally regulated) one.  I removed the carburetor and started prepping the engine for media blasting.  2013-04-08

  Well, with picking up some parts and later having to run out and buy some small gauge welding wire for the body work, I managed to get a little body work done and a plan of attach.  the main rear floor panel is still on back order, but I should be able to repair most everything else.  I'll leave the floor out of the under seat storage until after blasting, so that the area can be properly cleaned and epoxy primed.  I was able to straighten out the wheel wells pretty good, and the cross floor brace that mounts to the frame.  this is the part of the job I don't enjoy, repairing rust sheet metal.  Oh well once it's done then comes the fun (not) of filling and sanding.  2013-04-09
  Not a lot of work, but the good Transmission Case Arrived.  I did get some more tub repairs and some welding done on it as well as looking at the issues (setting 1/4" too for rearward) with installing the one-wire alternator.  2013-04-10

  Well, been away for several days, and had a lot of parts arrive.  I believe the rear floor pan will arrive tomorrow.  I also finished some tweaks to the 1-Wire Alternator installation, and need to mount one new spacer.  2013-04-17

  I got a BIG shipment, well it was a BIG BOX anyway.  It was over packed, it was the replacement rear floor for the tub. The sides were well protected, but the front cross member was bent a little, but it's the part I don't need and will remove before installing.  I started the teardown of the Dana 20 transfercase so that I'd know what I needed to order, part wise.  It was nice to work on dirty greasy parts again rather than rust, that is until I encountered a problem with the shift rods not let the front case housing slide off.  The case shifter was sloppy and hard to shift, and it may be the same cause, as a problem with the detent spring/balls may be the cause.  I looked over the intermediate shaft and gear set and some surface issues were present.  So my brother donated one of his spare Dana 20's to the cause, well I'm not sure what it's going to cost Phil, but that's between them.  All I know is I have a better transfercase to work.  2013-04-18

  A good day today.  I dropped the Transmission case and bell housing off to be cleaned by the machine shop in their tanks.  I then proceeded to start the rear floor replacement.  As the front full tub width cross member that came on the new floor, was not an exact fir for the one in the CJ6, and the one in the Jeep was in good shape, I started by removing it from the new floor pan.  Next came a few quick checks and comparisons.  I discovered the next floor reinforcement rearward was not in the same location on the CJ5 rear floor, and the CJ6 one was also a floor support off the frame, I decided to leave it in place while removing the old floor.  I also discovered that the rear floor crossmember on the CJ5's floor was much better than the simple angle iron on the CJ6's.  I proceeded to cut out the old floor and, then test fir the new panel.  The forward edge will be on top rather then sandwiched between the CJ6's added floor and the earlier mentioned cross member on the front of the CJ5's floor.  This is because it would have required removal of the cross member.  this should be a non issue and the seam will be clean and strong.  Next to start welding it in place.  2013-04-19
  Picked up the replacement Transmission Housing and Bellhousing from Donnelly Automotive Machine, where I dropped them off to be cleaned.  2013-04-20

  Had a good days work in tub repair.  First I patched the fender well in preparation for installing the new floor.  Then I went to adapt the new floor for the tub to frame mounts.  As I drilled a pilot hole in the cross member for the wheel well mounts, I was greeted by wood, yes wood.  Apparently the reproduction floors have these hat shaped cross members filled with wood.  I carefully bent the attachment flange over and pushed the wood out, it was in two pieces.  I then made some captured nuts to install, and separated them with some scrap strapping to hold them at the correct spacing before installing them in the cross member, and again carful re-shaping the attachment flange.  Once this was done, next I gut the rear inner rear mounts off the old floor, and cleaned them up before attaching them to the new floor.  Next came the installation and welding of the new floor to the tube.  It all went pretty good, and is well attached and should be stout.  The new floor, with three new cross member and one old one will be much stronger than it was before (2 cross members and a piece of angle).  I then started making some more patch repairs and crack welding to the bottom of the tub, and filled two of the right side outer body panel holes.  2013-04-22

  Removed the remaining heat shield off the tub and patched a couple more small holes. I also did some final work on the chassis to prep and have it ready to load and take to the media blasters. Now to just load it and get it on the road tomorrow.  2013-04-23

  Well, a cold (mid 30's) and wet morning, so I had to wait a little to get the chassis to the media blasters. But it's there now, and I've loaded up the Tub, and other body parts to get them media blasted next. I'll drop them off when I pick up the blasted chassis.  2013-04-24

For those curious, I'm now up to 50 hours of "mechanics" labor on this job. This does not include any loading, unloading, transporting, part searching, ordering etc... time. It's just the amount of wrenching, fixing, welding, etc... time.

  The rebuild kit for the T15 and the seal/gasket kit for the Dana 20, as well as the JB customs Twin stick all arrived from Novak. So I pulled out the Dana 20, started cleaning and installing the seals. I also pulled the pan off for inspection, as well as installation of a new gasket.. I did a test fit of the JB Twin Sticks as well. All looks good. I discovered that there is are Interlock "Pills" between the shifters to prevent you from shifting incorrectly. As this Jeep was getting the twin sticks to replace the bad single stick shifter, and for the looks, the "pills" were left in. they can be removed to allow for full multi position shifting if needed for hard core off road use. After everything was buttoned back up and cleaned, I applied a fresh coat of paint on the Transmission housing as well as the Transfercase.  2013-04-27

  Well, I'd sure like to know what they did to cause all the carnage on the Transmission and bellhousing, but I found more. The Input shaft Cover/Housing was cracked as well, and brazed shut. Looks to be a decent job, holes drilled at each end of the crack before it was brazed closed. The internals wern't bad to get out, once you understood the correct sequence. Got everything cleaned and started the re-assembly. The counter shaft, and reverse gears went back in pretty cleanly and didn't have any issues with the needle bearings, Getting the snap rings off the main shaft was difficult with out the proper heavy duty snap ring tool, but got them off, and the new syncro rings installed. Now putting them back on, that's a different story. No luck in that, so I'll be buying a heavy duty snap ring tool to put them back on before I can finish re-assembling the transmission.  2013-04-29

  Thank you fellow MIJC'er, Bill G.! Having the right tool always makes the job so much easier. Bill happen to have the elusive (I checked 4 local parts/tool places and two tranny shops with no help) lock ring pliers, and they just so happened to be Craftsman (947386), and in stock locally! Two of the three snaps rings are on, and on very quickly, the last one goes on near the end of assembly. I checked with MATCO for the tool, and they have discontinued it, I'm so glad Sears still makes it. I also got the chassis back for the media blasters, so now I can start the painting of it. Cost was $200 for the chassis blasting.  2013-04-30
  I finished the re-Assembly of the T15 Transmission this morning.  2013-05-01